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- Start dateSep 1, 2015
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 1, 2015
- #1
I have a 212 Predator Hemi. The picture shows the valves and rockers, obviously. Are the nuts on top of the rockers for adjusting the lash? I have noticed that the engine is hard to pull start, but will still run. Should I adjust the valve lash to reset the compression release? If so, what are the settings for the intake and exhaust valves on a Hemi 212? Sometimes when I pull the recoil, it "bucks" and tries to yank the pull handle out of my hand. Once it starts, it runs pretty well. Thanks for any info.
itsid
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- Sep 1, 2015
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No.. no.. no
No, the bolts set the lash, the nuts are there to prevent the bolts from resetting themselves on their own (vibration)
No, you should NOT reset the valve lash as your motor is running well.
And finally:
No, the compression release cannot be "reset" by adjusting the valves at all.
So, the yanking problem is .excuse me- a matter of inexperience I assume.
first gently pull the starter rope to get into the compression stroke
(you'll notice the resistance increases)
let it rewind, then pull start the engine (there should be no yanking at all)
If the piston sits at it's combustion stroke (half a turn later), the compression stroke will be after one and a half rotations...
and if you pulled hard enough, the compression release doesn't open at all (by design!)
...
and it get's violent. with all the yanking and such.
'sid
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 7, 2015
- #3
Hemi Predator Carb Screw Question
Here is the carb on my 212 Predator Hemi. I realize that the idle speed is controlled by a black plastic screw on top of the carb. However, my carb also has this brass screw on the left side of the float bowl (just left of center in the picture). What does this adjust? Is this a mixture screw? If so, which direction leans out the mix?
Thanks for any info.
OzFab
New member
- Sep 8, 2015
- #4
See pic below; are you referring to the screw marked by the red arrow? That is the idle mixture screw...
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 9, 2015
- #5
Predator Hemi Valve Springs?
I have a 212 Hemi Predator. I am considering a build using a stock length billet rod, billet flywheel, Mod2 cam, and a CNC machined carb. What valve springs are recommended? Where can I get a pair? Thanks for any info.
KartFab
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- Sep 9, 2015
- #6
omb warehouse
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 21, 2015
- #7
Predator Hemi Head Bolts Reuseable?
I am considering a 212 Predator Hemi build. This might be a dumb question, but are the cylinder head bolts reuseable? Also, what are the torque specs for the bolts? Thanks for any info.
Poboy kartman
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- Sep 21, 2015
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NOPE!!!!All used Predator head bolts MUST be sent to the "Poboy Fund"....
JK....As far as I know....Nope....totally reusable...(I know where this is possibly coming from....some Ford automotive head bolts were "stretch to deform" and were one time use head bolts....you would tighten them down to like 100 ft lbs and then crank another 1/4 turn....
Naw...totally reusable....(their like. Chacer's underwear) ....dont even wash them untill they have at least 2000 hours on them....
BKS212
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- Sep 21, 2015
- #9
We had a speeco 212 hemi that we had a similar issue with. Except it wouldn't start and it would nearly rip the pull start out of your hand.
Popped the head off to inspect piston, etc.
Put it back on, set valve lash to .003, and it's still running like a champ now! Just used it to tamp our driveway yesterday matter of fact.
Just check the valve lash and make sure it's in spec. What could it hurt to do that? If it's off, fix it. Might solve your problem like it did mine.
Poboy kartman
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- #10
BKS212 said:
We had a speeco 212 hemi that we had a similar issue with. Except it wouldn't start and it would nearly rip the pull start out of your hand.
Popped the head off to inspect piston, etc.
Put it back on, set valve lash to .003, and it's still running like a champ now! Just used it to tamp our driveway yesterday matter of fact.
Just check the valve lash and make sure it's in spec. What could it hurt to do that? If it's off, fix it. Might solve your problem like it did mine.
That's great! You don't know why though.....and it's because your valve lash was set 180° out....(On the exhaust stroke, and when you reset it....it was on the compression stroke) ....
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 21, 2015
- #11
Best Cam For Stock Hemi Predator?
What is the best cam to use with the Hemi Predator if I keep the stock valve springs, flywheel, and rod? I plan to use the RuXing carb as well for a "budget" buildup. The engine already has a cone air filter and header. This is just for terrorizing local parking lots. I may someday have it on a racetrack, but not anytime soon. Thanks for any info.
Poboy kartman
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The best one is the one that came with it.....it was DESIGNED. for stock....
That being said....you can go to a "stage one" cam...??
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mckutzy
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- Sep 21, 2015
- #13
Well an occasional wipe before use helps.....
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Denny
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- Sep 21, 2015
- #14
You should keep all you're questions in one post to avoid getting spanked by a moderator.
Denny
OzFab
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- Sep 22, 2015
- #15
...Aaaand, that's gonna happen right now...
How many threads do you need regarding the same engine? The correct answer is ONE!
5 threads merged...
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 25, 2015
- #16
Look What You Find When You Just Take It Apart....
Okay-I get the Idiot Of The Month Award. All this time I have been bugging this forum looking for info about valve adjustment on my 212 Hemi Predator. Apparently I should have simply pulled the cam out and examined it. In the past, on previous Predators I have owned, I have simply disconnected the governor rather than removing it altogether. I never had a problem....I guess it was a matter of time before one would actually shed parts while running. As you can see in the photos, part of the plastic cap on the governor got wedged in the compression release, preventing it from operating. I managed to remove the rest of the governor, including the arm, without any trouble. After reassembly, the engine turned over much more easily.
Thanks to all who offered assistance and put up with my multiple threads. To those who wish to simply disconnect the governor: TAKE A FEW EXTRA MINUTES TO REMOVE THE WHOLE STINKIN' THING. 'Cause it will, eventually, give you a headache!!
Poboy kartman
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- Sep 25, 2015
- #17
Yeah.....removing rather than disabling the governor is standard advice here....I compliment you on the guts to admit the mistake....and the contribution that doing so adds to the credibility of the previous advice.....
Thanks....
OzFab
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- Sep 25, 2015
- #18
I recently mentioned in another thread that "just because it hasn't happened yet doesn't mean it never will"; it's always only a matter of time...
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gokarttimmy
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- Sep 26, 2015
- #19
Can't Remove Emulsion Tube From XLIC Carb
I have an XLIC carb on my Predator-when I tried to remove the emulsion tube to re-jet,the jet came right out-but the tube just WILL NOT come out-no matter what I have tried. Now the tube looks like it is slightly bollocksed on top. Solutions, anyone?
So I got the original carb and removed the tube and jet. I installed the new tube and #36 jet. It fired right up, but now fuel is blowing back through the carb and a misfire upon acceleration. The paper gasket between the carb and intake is looking tatty as well. What have I done this time?
Poboy kartman
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- Sep 26, 2015
- #20
Iffin yer imushen toob lukes liken it mabee is bollocksed on top....yer best bet would be unbollocksed thet sukker....
Seams lick you may have gib her a heard time trying to take 'er out.....
Reminds me of the time with Betty Lou.....oh, wait.....neermind....
First: ....but , really, the solution is actually pretty simple....try to restore that to (as close as possible) factory condition....or just replace it....
Sorry fer tha smartalekky response....sumtimes eye kint halp misef....
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